Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana usually offer a pretty obvious thematic cue with their invitation. This time around, however, the playfully uneven font on the invite read more like a puzzle. Well, there was no need to read much into it — the collection revolved around one thing: letters. Could we buy a vowel, please?
The runway started out upbeat enough, set to a disco mash-up of Madonna’s “Vogue” and Duck Sauce’s “Barbara Streisand” tracks. And the first girls out did strike a rather fun tone in clothes covered in graphic black-and-white block lettering, which worked a casual street vibe, early Nineties-style. Sweaters, either cropped or oversize, were extra slouchy while jackets came generously cut and mannish, with big, broad shoulders. The designers sent out plenty of leggings and tight, bandeau skirts and dresses, too, and folded in a layering motif — sweatshirt over dress over swishy sheer skirt — that boosted the sporty urban feel. Ditto the heels du jour: wedge sneakers.
But Dolce and Gabbana also kept on (and on and on) with the alphabet theme and the lineup soon became one big typographical blur, especially when they switched from the two-tone graphics to a dizzying rainbow of florescent hues, done in sequins for evening. It was relentless. Ultimately, this was one collection that wasn’t exactly letter perfect.
First images are of backstage D&G Show, the rest are the full collection of the Milan Show.