paris fashion week|john galliano rtw fall 2011

Whether the John Galliano label can go on and flourish remains to be seen. Yet as Sidney Toledano, the president of both Dior and Galliano, said, “The show must go on,” and so it did, in a quietly intense reminder of a special talent now in absentia. The clothes were exquisite; the presentation itself, a mini nod to the Galliano collections of years ago, in which the models vamped their way through a series of tableaux vivant. Here, a central installation anchored by an old, circular red banquette, surrounded by candelabra, pillows, abundant floral bouquets and a lonesome teddy bear recalled Galliano’s lyrical showmanship without trying to replicate it. The tight lineup featured distinct day and evening sections, the former all about shapely jackets cut with flourish, as in a gray tweed short in back that fell into a graceful draped V in front over a slim draped skirt. Yet the evening pieces triggered the nostalgia most acutely: the languid Thirties halters; the jeweled, feathered black chiffon, part Bob Mackie for Cher, part silver screen siren; and, mostly, the show closer, a seemingly simple toga, held in place with a length of pink ribbon. Fashion paradise lost.

 

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paris fashion week|john galliano rtw fall 2011