paris fashion week|emanuel ungaro rtw fall 2011

Paris, City of Light, the Louvre and…lusty mistresses? Giles Deacon chose to continue in last season’s ultra-Frenchy vein, but this time he skipped past the sweet romance and made a serious beeline for the heat seekers. “I wanted that kind of sexual provocativeness in the clothing,” he wrote in the show notes. “Mr. Ungaro always said he dressed the mistresses, not the wives. I decided to do the same.” Deacon’s take on sexy is rigorous and strict, yet done with a couturelike sensibility. A black strapless jumpsuit came layered over a lace top while a ribcage-squeezing corset dress, perfectly streamlined from the front, flaunted intricate beading and feather work on the return. Practically everything came in lean cuts — cropped jackets, tight sheaths — enhanced with incredible Lesage embroideries, including wolf and eagle heads on great biker jackets and sweatshirts that hinted at his predatory muses. And, indeed, these clothes are for take-no-prisoners women who know how to wield a stiletto (peep toe and crystal encrusted) and prefer their neck-wear in the form of wide leather chokers with a single gold buckle. Tempering that vibe somewhat were some draped dresses in arty feather prints, fluffy fur chubbies and tweed daywear, the latter occasionally served up in absinthe green. Were Deacon’s temptresses tempting? To a large degree, yes, although how that ultra-lacquered seduction fits into the larger vision at Ungaro remains to be seen. Ditto those exhibitionists-only see-through lace dresses and pants.

 

Advertisements
paris fashion week|emanuel ungaro rtw fall 2011